Climbers Return to Everest’s Northern Face as China Reopens Permits
After a two-year hiatus due to the pandemic, China is once again allowing foreign climbers to attempt Mount Everest via the Tibetan route. This marks a potential shift for the world’s tallest mountain, which has seen a surge in popularity on the Nepalese side in recent years.
The Tibetan Route: Permits and Logistics
Unlike the Nepalese side, permits for the Tibetan route are managed by the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) rather than a government agency. Climbers won’t find a public announcement – the best indicator of a season’s opening is the release of a price list by CTMA. This list outlines costs for essentials like yak transportation, local guides, and permits.
Foreign climbers with a Chinese tourist visa will need an additional permit specific to Tibet, a process facilitated by CTMA. The quota for non-Chinese climbers is capped at 300 annually.
The climbing window on Everest is narrow, typically falling between late April and mid-May. Climbers often pre-acclimatize at home to maximize their time on the mountain.
A Shift in Popularity
While the Nepalese route boasts the more iconic Everest summit photos, it also faces environmental challenges due to a higher volume of climbers. However, the Tibetan route wasn’t always the less-frequented option.
“From 2000 to 2007, the Chinese side was more popular,” says Adrian Ballinger, an experienced Everest guide who prefers the Tibetan route. Safety was often cited as the reason.
A turning point came in 2008, when China hosted the Olympics. The Olympic Flame’s symbolic ascent of Everest, just days before the scheduled arrival of climbing groups, led to a sudden season-long closure.
“A lot of people lost money,” Ballinger recalls. “That year, the business shifted to the Nepali side.”
With China reopening its permits, experienced climbers like Ballinger see a potential for the Tibetan route to regain some of its former popularity.